Flat Ironing Tips

A flat iron is the fastest and, if used incorrectly, the most damaging way to straighten hair. It allows women who have super curly corkscrew curls or those with just wavy hair to get the stick-straight style that they want. Barbara Abbasi, the founder of the Ferrum Professional Styler and owner of American Beauty Hair Salon in California offers some useful tips for clients before they run to their local drug store and begin straightening away.

The Heat Factor
Flat irons expose the hair to a significant amount of heat . Barbara cautions that, “If flat irons are not used properly, you can severely damage your hair. When you start straightening your hair, especially if you do it everyday, you should switch to a thermal protection shampoo, like Thermasilk. This will help protect your hair from excessive heat damage.”

Flat Ironing Do's & Don'ts

•  DO wash your hair properly. Flat irons are less effective on dirty and oily hair.
•  DON'T not use any hair spray or gel on your hair after washing.
•  DO Dry your hair completely, right from the roots to the tips.
•  DO get some help from a straightening balm to it. This will help eliminate any frizz and also protect your hair.
•  DO use a heat protection spray beforehand.
•  DO remove any tangles before you start.
•  DON'T straighten sections of hair no more than 1 inch wide.
•  DON'T flat iron your hair every day.

JBCO = Jamaican Black Castor Oil

(Jamaican Black Castor Oil, $9.99 Amazon.com)

I recently received an email inquiring about JBCO or Jamaican Black Castor Oil.  I realized I mention it quite a bit here on The Anti Hair Slave, (like here, here, here, here, plus more) so I decided I'll do a complete AHS style review.

Product Description: Black Castor Oil is a powerful healing oil that has withstood the test of time. It is the end result of an ancient method used in preparing and making castor oil. The fatty acids and phytochemicals found in Tropic Isle Living’s Jamaican Black Castor Oil address many health and beauty conditions. A bottle can serve as a hair and scalp conditioner. Black castor oil seals moisture in the hair with a protective coat. It’s also the only oil in nature with ricinoleic acid. It helps to destroys viruses, bacteria, yeast and molds that cause many skin problems. Tropic Isle Living Black Castor Oil also helps to remove uric acid from body – the source of many inflammations.   


AHS Thoughts:  When I first got the JBCO I have to admit it took some getting used to.  I used it off and on for a while because I really couldn't get the hang of it.  It's super thick and if you use too much you'll have a greasy mess on your hands.  So it moved to the back of the beauty closet and only made it's appearance every now and then.  Then I started only putting a little tiny dab on my fingertip, rubbing my fingertips together, then applying it to my scalp.  I keep on dabbing and applying until I get my whole scalp, massaging the whole way.  


I attribute the growth of my problem area to this product.  Nothing could help that area grow in, it stayed short and was just a whack patch!  But now, the whole area is growing in.  It still hasn't caught up to the rest of my hair, but it's doing well.  I've tried adding in JBCO to other products, like my conditioners and shampoos but I think it works best when applied directly to the scalp and massaged in.  

Some people complain that they hate the smell of JBCO, but I really don't even smell much of anything.  It's not a strong scent at all and it does not linger in my hair, but if it really bothers you there is Lavender Jamaican Black Castor Oil ($11.95, Amazon.com).  I've tried that as well, works the same as the regular just it has a slight lavender scent.  

Benefits Of Egg yolk - Maintain Your Health

Eating cooked eggs easier to control the amount that you want to eat and to reduce intake of cholesterol in the body. The many benefits of eating boiled eggs include,

1.Rich in vitamins
Egg yolk is rich in vitamins such as vitamin A, E and D

2.Beneficial for hair
Egg yolk is not only a nutritious diet, but it is also very beneficial for hair and has been a traditional hair care remedy. Because of the ample amounts of vitamins are present in an egg yolk that helps to prevent hair loss, improve hair health, shine and texture.

3.Rich in minerals
Egg yolk contains most of the minerals required to maintain a healthy body. These include copper, calcium, folate and iron.

4.Beneficial for the eyes
The yellow yolk of the egg is very beneficial for the eyes. Furthermore, egg yolks are an excellent source of carotenoids, which are useful for maintaining healthy eyes. They are highly absorbable forms of zeaxanthin and lutein.

5.Rich source of omega 3 fatty acids
Egg yolk is a rich source of long-chain omega-3 fatty acids that are essential for the proper development and function of brain and retinal function in the eye. Both of these fatty acids are primarily used for growing children, pregnant and lactating mothers. These are also important for people suffering from degenerative diseases like Alzheimer's disease.

6.Maintaining physical health
People who make a regular price of egg yolk have better digestion, better endurance, and high resistance to disease. Thus, the egg yolk a food that helps maintain the overall health of the body.

Innovative Beauty: HairMax LaserComb

For the first time in over twenty years, a new home-use treatment for female hair loss is available. Lexington Intl, LLC, is excited to announce they have received historic and groundbreaking FDA Clearance for marketing for the HairMax LaserComb® Lux 9 to treat female hair loss and promote hair growth. Included as a key part of the submission was a multi-center clinical study proving the efficacy and safety of the HairMax.

“Hair loss amongst women is a growing concern”, says Dr. Matt Leavitt, Medical Advisor to Lexington. “In the past, women had only one FDA Approved drug ingredient to treat their hair loss. Now they have a clinically proven viable alternative. Upon review of Lexington’s extensive clinical studies on female hair loss, the FDA has granted Clearance to this exciting new treatment option. I believe the HairMax will be able to offer help to the millions of women suffering from hair loss.”

The last hair loss treatment for women to be approved by the FDA was minoxidil, which came to market for females in 1988. The HairMax is now the first non-drug, home-use OTC medical device cleared to treat the estimated 80 million men and women suffering from hereditary hair loss.

Hair Care Regimen for Swimmers

Since the summer is here and I've been getting tons of emails asking me about swimming and hair care I figured I should give you guys a sample hair care regimen for swimmers. Here is something you might not know about me, I was a swimmer as a child for my town, in high school and I did a short stint as a diver in college. The one thing that always boggled my mind about swimming was not my hair, instead it was why the swim season is in the winter! I digress, anyway, back to hair care and swimming.

Whether your hair is relaxed or natural the most important thing about swimming and taking care of your hair is you must get the chlorine or salt water out of your hair. All this jazz about pre-rinsing or putting conditioner on your hair before you swim is fine if that's what you want to do, but the bottom line is that your hair will get wet and chlorine will get in there so make sure you get it out! With that being said, you do not need to shampoo it out. A nice co-wash or plain old water rinse will get it out, I just prefer (by 100x) to co-wash.

What I use to co-wash: VO5 Moisture Milk Conditioner

During the summer when I'm swimming a lot, I do not change up the number of times I wash my hair with shampoo. I stick to washing my hair once a week with shampoo. Usually, I try to use a shampoo without SLS or I just use my Shikakai Shampoo Bar. My rule is that I do not shampoo my hair more than once a week, even if I'm not swimming and it's just hot and I feel like my scalp needs refreshing before the 1 week mark, I just co-wash.

Since I tend to live in the pool when it's hot, I like to step up my conditioning regimen. Instead of deep conditioning just once a week, I try my hardest to deep condition twice a week. Plus, whenever I swim if I co-wash I treat that as my shampoo, meaning I use a separate conditioner after I co-wash. My choice is almost always an "instant" conditioner, instead of a deep treatment type of conditioner. I only use a deep treatment conditioner twice a week.

Styling is the biggest issue I face. For the most part I just put a little extra conditioner on my ends and then put my hair into a low bun, especially if I know I'll be swimming the very next day. If not, I might do something relatively easy that requires no heat like two strand twists. I stay away from heat styling because there really is no point for me, why bother with that when we all know too much heat causes damage? The easiest thing to do is air dry, if you have issues with air drying click that link and read my tips for air drying.

Do you have more tips? Leave them in the comments section.

Tips for Air Drying

Now that the weather is finally nice, I can start air drying my hair more often. I personally, love to air dry during the summer months because it's easy and gives my hair a break from heat. I've been getting a lot of emails requesting tips on how to air dry their hair so here we go.

Air Drying Dilemma: Do I have to use a product? If so, which one?

The biggest mistake when trying to wash, condition, and then just try to air dry. You need to apply some type of leave-in conditioner whether it's a spray or a cream or an oil, do not try to air dry your hair 'naked'. In fact, sometimes I use all three first a spray to help detangle if any tangles are left after rinsing out the conditioner. Then I use a little bit of a cream moisturizer mainly to the ends and finally I seal that with the oil and proceed to air dry.

Air Drying Dilemma: Air dry up or out and loose?

This is really up to you and how you want your hair to look and what you are going to be doing while you air dry. You can do some two strand twists, bantu knots, one big bun, or just leave it alone. This is really based on preference, but one thing I always do is apply some type of gel to my edges (all the way around my head, not just the front) and then tie a scarf on like a headband to hold it down. Unfortunately, I don't have those edges that just lay like fine little baby hairs so I have to control that.

Air Drying Dilemma: I air dried, now what?

After air drying my hair is so big and full that I love creating cool looking low buns or down 'dos. I twist it, make little braids, and just try different things when creating a unique looking 'do. Please note, if your hair feels dry moisturize it! Don't worry that you've already used products, dry hair is never a good look.

AHS TV: The Science of Black Hair

New video alert! I've uploaded a brand new video to youtube talking about about Sister Slick aka Mizz Slick bka Audrey Davis-Sivasothy's brand new book, The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair Care. Watch the video review, then get your copy!

Shiny Soft Hair thanks to Serums

If your current hair care regimen does not include a serum of some sorts, I suggest you find one you love ASAP! Why? Because serums can do so many things to help our your 'do, from adding shine, moisture, providing heat protection, UV protection, help strength, and much more. Here are some new serums that have caught my eye and are worth checking out.

Sedu has a brand new product out featuring the ever so popular ingredient, Argan Oil. If you haven't heard about the amazing benefits of Argan oil you must be living under a beauty rock. Anyway, Sedu's new product is a serum, the Anti-Frizz Polishing Treatment that helps get your hair smoother and shinier, while protecting it from heat damage. Sedu is one of the leading heat tool brands, so that part only makes sense, why create a product that doesn't protect from heat? Anyway, I received a sample and I must say I really like it. It's lightweight, a little goes a long way, and it's alcohol free so it won't dry out your hair. Get it at Folica.com

Cantu Shea Butter Super Shine Hair Silk is another great option because it not only provides tons of shine, it is also rich in proteins that help strengthen and prevent breakage. Like most great serums, this one is lightweight and won't weigh down your blow out. Plus, it can be used as treatment just like you would do a hot oil treatment. Not to mention this one smells amazing!

Can Ceramides Help You?

The online hair care realm has been buzzing about Ceramides and how they are transforming damaged broken hair into healthy hair. I've been MIA a little bit, especially on the forums so I really didn't get sucked into all the hype, but the more I read about new products coming out the more I see Ceramides on the labels. It seems like the mainstream hair care industry is just now catching up with the Dominican products, since just about all the Dominican hair care products I own contain Ceramides.

Dominican Products with Ceramides:

Miss KEY 10 En 1 Super Conditioner (my favorite)

Silicon MIX Intensive Hair Deep Treatment

Salerm Wheat Germ Conditioning Treatment

Silicon Mix Proteina de Perla Leave-In

Silicon Mix Leave-in

Boe Crece Pelo Leave-In

Halka Baba de Caracol Hair Loss Treatment

Halka La Plancha Conditioner

Halka La Plancha Deep Heat Protector Leave-In
Nacidit Leave-In Conditioner

Salerm Energy Hair Regenerator Ampules

Alright, so what exactly are Ceramides? To be scientific, a ceramide is a group of lipid molecules. Hair needs this group of lipids (ceramides) to help hold together the cuticle of the hair. In healthy hair, ceramides hold together the cuticle of each individual strand of hair, to take that a step further, researchers at L'Oreal Hair-Science found that damaged hair lacks the ceramides. So without ceramides each individual strand of hair has gaps in the cuticle, rough (lifted up) cuticles and holes that make the hair vulnerable to damage and breakage.

On a Beauty Note:

Ceramides are not just beneficial for hair care, they also play a key role in keeping your skin healthy and moisturized. If you are suffering from eczema it's because your skin is lacking the ceramides you need, supplement with a ceramide containing lotion.

How to Treat a Relaxer Burn

I feel like since I posted on how to prevent relaxer burns, I should also post on how to treat a relaxer burn just in case some of my readers are still suffering from chemical burns caused by a relaxer. First of all, let me say your scalp can be burned by a lye or a no-lye relaxer, neither relaxer is exempt.

The first things first, I want to clear up a misconception. The tingly or burning feeling some people feel when they relax their hair is NOT a warning that it's time to get the relaxer out. At that point your scalp is probably already burned, your scalp should not burn or tingle when you relax your hair. If you are waiting to feel a little something, you are doing it all wrong! If your stylist waits until you report that you feel it tingling, get a new stylist!

Now let's get started on how to treat a mild* chemical burn caused by a relaxer. By mild I mean you find a scab on your scalp the next day or a few days after the relaxer process. If you know you have an open wound when you rinse the relaxer out, that's really bad and you should seek medical help. Get all the relaxer out of your head, cover the area with a sterile gauze and get to the hospital for further assessment. I mean that's all common sense and that's not the type of burn I'm talking about. MILD is when you didn't even know the burn occurred until you felt the scab.

1. Keep your hands off! Do not pick, scratch, or in any way try to remove the scab. Allow the scab to naturally heal and fall away.

2. Avoid combing, brushing, or massaging that area of your scalp until the scab has healed and fallen off on it's own. If you have to remove the hair that might be stuck to it, do it gently and honestly I wouldn't even do that.

3. Treat the scab. Treat your scab like you would any other scab, by applying antibacterial cream to the area. I would use Neosporin because it's clear and less detectable. Or you can use something more natural like a piece of Aloe Vera.

4. Prevent it from happening again. Use the tips and tricks I provided in this post to prevent relaxer burns in the first place and if you've tried it all and you still end up with burns maybe you body is trying to warn you. Some scalps just cannot tolerate relaxers and maybe you should just leave them alone and go natural!

*Please note this post is to provide general information, not medical advice. If you are in need of medical advice ask your doctor, do not turn to blogs for the information.

Fall Hair Care Focus

For me Fall is all about revival as far as hair care is concerned. Even though I take special care of my hair all year round, I feel as though the period between the end of the summer and right before it gets really cold is important in my own personal hair care regimen. During the summer months, I co-wash more often but I also leave my hair out more often. During the fall months, I'm still co-washing regularly but I'm wear my hair up more often and concentrate on moisturizing my ends more. Since I can co-washing about twice a week, I need a moisturizer than is a bit more on the watery side so it can really get to all my hair easily.

Matrix Hydra-Seal Leave-in Créme is infused with Aloe Vera and Algae help nourish and restore hair’s moisture balance and its very thin so it penetrates and gets to all my hair without me having to sit and divide section by section to ensure moisturization.

Coconut Oil is another Fall Hair Care must have product. Actually coconut is one of my staples year round, I can't say enough about the power of coconut oil when used to add shine, seal in moisture, and soften up new growth.

Over the summer months I'm happy to report that my problem area (the nape) has grown in a lot. Before it looked crazy and was about a half inch in length now it's about three inches long (when straight) and curly. I'm almost positive that the relaxer does not take in that area like it does on the rest of my hair. The rest of my hair has a loose wave while this area is slightly loosened small spirals post relaxer. Now to keep up with that, I'm moisturizing that area twice a day and applying JBCO when I remember (which is like three times a week). Right now that is my number one priority, maintain the health back there and keep increasing the length.

What hair care goals are you focusing on this fall?

Fall Hair Fixes

During the summer months we can be pretty hard on our hair. Once fall rolls around it's time to get back on track!

1. Pop open an ampoule! Those tiny little packets of deep conditioner are more concentrated than the regular stuff so using one of these can really give you a bang for your buck! Try Pantene Pro-V Medium-Thick Hair Solutions Professional Level Damage Repair Ampoules or Pantene Pro-V Curly Hair Series Professional Level Damage Repair Ampoules both can be found at your local drugstore for just $7.99

2. Trim it on up! Avoided trimming your hair all summer? Well now is the time to take the plunge and snip away the damage you've caused to those ends this summer. Be honest with yourself and really take stock of your hair and determine how much needs to be chopped. Remember by waiting to trim, the damage will only travel further and further up the shaft causing more damage.

3. Darken up! Has the summer sun caused your color to go brassy or look washed out? Rich chocolates, shiny blacks, and amazing auburns are in this fall! Try a natural alternative to harsh dyes and try henna! Have dark brown hair and want a rich brown? Mix 1/2 henna with 1/2 indigo, for a jet black look, use henna first then indigo, or want a full out auburn look? Mix up straight henna. Tip: Always, always, always use body art quality henna for your hair not those commercial types you find at the BSS or Whole Foods.

Anti-Aging for Your Hair

It is something most women do on a daily basis – fight the aging process. In fact, the number of non-invasive cosmetic procedures in the US has risen by an estimated +69% since the year 2000 and nearly 80% of women over the age of 50 color their hair to cover gray. Capitalizing on 50 years of scientific DNA, women can rest assured their age-defying needs are met with Redken’s NEW age-defying regimen featuring NEW Cover Fusion professional haircolor, Time Reset at-home haircare range, and a Time Reset Salon Service to combat and prevent aging hair.

“Most of us are well-versed on the impact of age on the skin, and less attention is spent on the effects of aging on the hair,” states David Cannell, Redken Research and Development Expert. “Redken research has identified two main categories of aging hair: chronological aging caused by mechanical, environmental and chemical distress – the combined effects of these external factors can leave hair dry, sensitized and/or porous. The second category is hormonal aging which occurs as a result of the physiological changes that women experience as they grow older. This ultimately results in slowed scalp activity and the decline in melanin, the hair’s natural source of protection and defense against age-accelerating aggressors.”

The combined impact of chronological & hormonal aging can leave hair with six visible effects that lead hair to become porous, lifeless, and extremely difficult to manage:

1. Change in Texture

2. Diminished Density

3. Increased Dryness

4. Surface Dullness

5. Fragility / Breakage

6. Gray Hair



“Everyone’s hair ages differently, some of us earlier than others,” explains Cannell. “Below is a general timeline that captures the changes women commonly observe:

- 20s: Hair is at the peak of thickness and strength; Scalp produces ample sebum giving hair healthy shine

- 30s: Damage incurred during your 20’s becomes visible; Slight decline in sebum production can cause hair to lose its natural luster

- 40s: Diameter of hair shaft begins to shrink, resulting in thinner and more fragile strands; Decline in melanin levels can lead to emerging gray hairs

- 50s: Most women are 50% gray by the age of 50, caused by a steep decline in melanin; Follicles continue to shrink leaving hair finer and thinner around hairline and top of scalp

- 60s: Nearly 40% of women will experience some degree of hair loss by age 60, mostly around the crown, leaving hair thin-looking and lackluster.”



Redken’s solution to aging hair is the NEW age-defying regimen that addresses both the immediate needs of aging hair while helping to prevent hair from aging starting in the salon with professional haircolor and backbar service, and continuing the care at-home with age-fighting retail offerings.



Cover Fusion Low Ammonia 100% Coverage Color Cream

Redken’s NEW Cover Fusion Low Ammonia 100% Coverage Color Cream offers 100% gray coverage with natural, modern reflects to clients with over 50% gray hair. Formulated with low ammonia and low odor, Cover Fusion provides a pleasant and comfortable experience for clients. Additionally, Cover Fusion contains ingredients specifically formulated to address the issues gray-haired clients face. With argan oil it helps protects against weakened defenses resulting from melanin loss and with cationic conditioning polymers and rice protein, it provides superior conditioning to dry/dull hair. Available in 24 naturally reflective shades[ii], Cover Fusion addresses 4 of the 6 signs of aging.


Cover Fusion’s Revitalage Colorbond Technology TM provides 100% gray coverage:

· Naturally Reflective Coverage: A combination of high coverage dyes provides intense reflect and perfect coverage for hair that is over 50% gray

· Optimal Defense: With argan oil, which contains antioxidants known to neutralize free radicals

· Superior Conditioning: Cationic conditioning polymers and rice protein help revitalize the hair

Additionally, Cover Fusion’s creamy texture provides easy application with either a bottle or bowl and brush, and 35-minute processing provides faster processing time for more efficient services for colorists and their clients.



Time Reset Salon Service and At-Home Regimen

Redken’s NEW Time Reset helps repair years of damage while combating and preventing five visible signs of aging hair with a targeted home regimen and salon service.

Time Reset uses a combination of age-fighting formulas fortified with the powerful Vital 5 Complex and patented Intra-Cylane® technology to help combat 5 of the 6[iii] signs of aging hair:

Intra-Cylane®: Evens porosity and improves strands resilience
Peptides & Ceramide: Repair and resurface the cuticle
Green Tea: Neutralizes free radicals with antioxidant support
Camellia Oil: Softens, replenishes, and restores shine
Cationic UV Filter: Helps prevent premature aging


The restorative process begins in the salon with a Time Reset Salon Service featuring a professional backbar treatment formulated with 10% Intra-Cylane® that helps even porosity, reinforce internal structure and restore substance to fragile strands.

In a salon study, professionals observed significant benefits[iv]:

· 94% observed an improvement in manageability

· 77% observed enhanced density

· 88% observed an increase in shine or brilliance



Time Reset At-Home Maintenance

The care is continued at home with advanced, age-fighting formulas that renew texture, enhance density, replenish moisture and shine, and help defend hair against free radicals for hair that looks and feels younger and more resilient from root to tip. Time Reset at-home regimen includes Shampoo, Conditioner, Youth Revitalizer replenishing deep treatment and Corrective Defense protective softening lotion.