September 2011 Relaxer Update

I relaxed my hair at about 11 weeks post relaxer.  I could have gone longer, but my birthday is coming up and I wanted a fresh one.  I really wanted to use the Arganics Relaxer System that I used last time, but I searched high and low for one in the local Beauty Supply Stores around my way with no luck.  So instead, I decided to try the Creme of Nature Argan Oil relaxer.  Lately, I've found that I've been allowing the girl at my doobie spot apply my relaxers instead of doing them myself.  Call me lazy, but she does a good job.

Product Description: Argan Oil Relaxer provides advanced straightening performance and exotic shine to relaxed hair. This uniquely formulated relaxer will hydrate and strengthen your hair, leaving it silky-straight and radiant, all in one application!


Product Benefits:

•  Provides increased straightening performance and exotic shine
• Promotes strong, healthy hair
• Regular and super strengths
• Features new Creme of Nature with Argan Oil Gloss & Shine Polisher and Intensive Conditioning Treatment 

AHS:  This relaxer kit includes the relaxer with the activator, a neutralizing shampoo, conditioner, and a sample of the Creme of Nature Argan Leave-In treatment.  The activator is clear and the base is white so mixing it up was a bit of a pain because it doesn't change color once you start mixing it up.  When it was applied to my head I didn't feel anything at all, no tingling or anything.  Once it was thoroughly rinsed out my new growth was sleek and straight.  Overall the relaxer kit is great and the price point is comparable to other boxed relaxers.  Basically, I'm not raving and I'm not disappointed for any reason.  I'll keep you posted if anything changes.

Here's a little length comparison from 2009 to now.  Remember there was a hair cut back in May 2010, where I got bangs added in.  For more photos of my hair check here

Relaxer Stretch

Ever since starting my hair care journey the biggest change in my hair care regimen is stretching my relaxers.  I've tried super long stretches, like 20 weeks worth of stretching but I've come to like going about 10-12 weeks only.  Back when I didn't know any better, I would relax every 5-6 weeks.  Can you imagine that?  Sometimes I would do what's called a 'halo' which is just relaxing the edges and I'd do that as soon as there was a kink in sight.  I'm surprised I even still have hair.

So ladies, how often do you relax your hair?

Arganics Relaxer Update

So it's been about 7 weeks since I relaxed my hair using the Arganics Relaxer System and I'm just as pleased.  I did not experience any of that annoying super dry scalp feeling, I have not noticed any damage to my hair and I am super excited to say that the one patch of super resistant hair that I have in the back was still straight for about 5 weeks post relaxer.   That's after lots of swimming and that crazy heat wave!

Arganics Relaxer Review

So I finally used the Arganics Double Conditioning and Moisturizing No Lye Relaxer, and guess what? I'm kicking myself for waiting so long because this is the best relaxer I've used ever. Okay, I'll give you a few seconds to let that sink in.  ARGANICS DOUBLE CONDITIONING AND MOISTURIZING RELAXER IS THE BEST RELAXER I'VE EVER USED!


Product Description: This specially formulated relaxer system provides DOUBLE conditioning and moisturizing with Extra Virgin Olive Oil enriched with Argan Oil, for oil replenishment and added moisture.

• Delivers conditioning straightening.
• Infuses moisture and oil while reducing hair breakage.
• Enhanced with a Chelating Rinse to give your hair added protection and a revived luster.
• Chelating Rinse removes excess, damaging mineral deposits that coat your hair and scalp, leaving a chalky coating.

AHS:  So this relaxer is just like any other box relaxer, it has the base with the activator that you mix together, gloves, mixing stick, and instructions.  It also has the shampoo and conditioning treatment, but what's also included that usually isn't included with box relaxers is protective gel and a chelating rinse.  I took this relaxer to my doobie shop and had them put it in for me and the girl who did my relaxer was very impressed with this relaxer kit.  Here is why I'm loving this relaxer kit, my nape area is straight!  STRAIGHT straight straight.  This is my problem area and it never gets straight like that, so I'm impressed.  Afterwards, my hair felt soft and silky but not overly straight everywhere else.  I definitely plan on using this relaxer again.  I have yet to see this relaxer in stores, but you can purchase online here.  

Next Relaxer Update: Coming Soon

My next relaxer session is coming up and I plan on using an Arganics Relaxer. Arganics is a new company from mother-daughter team Marty & Mary Lee Joshua of ISOPLUS. What makes Arganics relaxers so special? They have included a new step in the relaxer process called, the "Chelating Rinse." The additional step in their new Arganics Double Conditioning & Moisturizing Relaxer helps remove that dull build-up, so hair is stronger and shinier. A chelant simply is an ingredient that has the ability to bind calcium hydroxide and other heavy metals so that they can be more effectively removed from a surface, like the hair shaft and scalp.

My last relaxer was on Jan. 15, 2011 and I plan on relaxing on Wednesday, March 30th at 10 weeks and 4 days about 1 week after my latest henna treatment.

Design Essentials HydraStrength Relaxer System

Design Essentials Salon System has created HydraStrength Relaxer System, a new suite of relaxers, shampoos, conditioners, and a vitamin treatment that is "redefining relaxed hair". To address the special needs of consumers with relaxed hair, the entire relaxer system is infused with the HydraStrength Vitamin and Protein Complex which is a proprietary blend of protein and botanical ingredients - which are a natural source of vitamins, minerals and amino acids - designed to nourish, moisturize and strengthen the structure of the hair.

"While the relaxer market has seen declines over the last few years, Design Essentials has defied the negative trends, experiencing continuous growth in this category year after year," said Tracey A. Gibson, Director of Marketing for McBride Research Laboratory (MRL), the creator of Design Essentials. "But we also know that our relaxer customers are seeking products with less harsh chemicals that are more fortifying and moisturizing. Therefore, we have completely reformulated our relaxer system to address the primary needs of the relaxer customer and our pre-launch market tests indicate that we have made a sound decision."

The HydraStrength Relaxers consists of 5 strengths: Regular with Olive Oil and Shea Butter, Time Release Special with Honey Nectar, Super with Olive Oil & Shea Butter, Lo Lye with Shea Butter and Sensitive Scalp with Olive Oil and Shea Butter. The line also includes the newly reformulated Design Essentials® Neutralizing Conditioning Shampoo, 6N1 Reconstructive Conditioner & Restore Vitamin Treatment, which are also infused with moisturizing botanicals.
The benefits of the system include:

• Creamy texture for easy application, while relaxing evenly and rinsing quickly
• Conditioning buffers reduce irritation
• Vitamin-rich botanicals moisturizes and nourishes the hair while straightening
• Restores hair to its natural strength from the inside out
• Visibly fortifies the hair, leaving it smoother, softer, lustrous and more manageable

"The infusion of multiple botanical ingredients allows us to achieve three primary goals: creamy consistency for ease of application, excellent source of moisture and strengthening, and decreased irritability," Gibson added.
"The HydraStrength system encompasses all of our expertise in cultivating healthy hair, while moisturizing, smoothing and leaving hair manageable, healthy and beautiful. I have gotten amazing results on my current clients and they love the new system." Natalie Hayes, Creative Team Manger for Design Essentials explained. "As a company we believe in leaving texture in hair, so we recommend relaxing the hair only 65 to 75 percent straight, leaving a slight wave pattern when using any of the relaxers."

I can't wait to try this relaxer and when I do I will review it!

EXCLUSIVE: Relaxer Tips from Will Williams

Will Williams is a master level hair stylist and barber as well as the Director of Education at M&M Products Company, the parent company of Sofn'free GroHealthy. Here he shares his tips on prevent relaxer irritation, including one interesting question I've never had asked by any stylist. Williams also explains how you can prevent irritation even if you've been scratching your scalp pre-relaxer.

William asks, "have you had any anesthesia (local or general) since your last visit or in the last 3 weeks?" and "have you used any permanent hair color since I last saw you?"

I never even thought that anesthesia would have an effect on the hair, and this is important for all you ladies out there who wait until after delivering your baby (with an epidural or via c/s) to get a relaxer. Williams explains that anesthesia and permanent hair color can, "mean that your hair is structurally compromised and the relaxer should be delayed until the medications is removed by shampooing. In the case of permanent color we need to wait until new growth appears that hasn't been colored or relaxed before applying relaxer."

Williams also digs deeper, wanting to know from a client if she has been scratching unintentionally (removing dandruff flakes, targeting an itch with a comb, pen, pencil or other pointed item). Even including, wanting to know if she brushes the hairline trying to hold it down so the new growth of the hairline doesn't appear to be out of texture with the more relaxed look of the interior. These are ways to irritate the scalp without even realizing that you've been doing so. If you have been irritating your scalp without knowing it, Williams takes special care to base the entire scalp.

Williams continues the questioning, "If she tells me she doesn't scratch or brush or didn't shampoo vigorously in the last three days, I ask if she inadvertently scratches her scalp in her sleep. That's my "trick question" to make sure I better understand the condition of her scalp."

Then offers up some assistance for the problem: "For women I know who have a chronic itch/scratch cycle, I recommend a pre-shampoo treatment the week prior to relaxer. This helps to guard against the de-fatting of the scalp during the relaxer service. Naturally, I recommend the oil that you like in our lineup, Sofn'free GroHealthy Three-Layer Growth Oil. Just saturate the scalp, massage gently, let it set for at least five minutes (more if you like to penetrate the scalp and reach sub-dermal areas) to keep the scalp calm during the week before relaxer. Also, our Three-Layer Growth Oil or Strengthening Creme can be used on the scalp prior to salon visit the day before or even the day of the relaxer to help guard against possible scalp dryness and de- fatting."

The big message: Always cover the scalp with base protection, because the same process that is reducing curls in the hair is also reducing corresponding elements in the skin.

Relaxer Review: Dr. Miracles Relaxer

My last relaxer was on January 19th and I selected the Dr. Miracles Relaxer Kit because I've never tried it before and it looked promising.

Product Description: "Wow, thanks for all the feedback on my Dr. Miracle's hair care products and all those requests for a Dr. Miracle's Relaxer. Well here it is ... my Dr. Miracle's Thermalceutical No-Lye Relaxer (my greatest accomplishment).
My mom and sisters love my relaxer because it contains my "Feel It" Formula and gives them strong, shiny, healthy growing hair. They are amazed that it stops breakage and promotes a healthy moisturized scalp as well. My newest creation will let you enjoy a soft healthy head of hair and a healthy problem free scalp."

Thoughts: Just like any other relaxer kit, the Dr. Miracles Relaxer Kit comes with shampoo, activator, gloves, mixing stick, and directions. Fortunately, the relaxer did not call my scalp to tingle as it does with other Dr. Miracle's products and as far as that 'signature' Dr. Miracle's scent, the relaxer didn't have a scent at all. I was able to leave the relaxer on the same amount of time as any other relaxer, it didn't 'burn' my scalp. Afterwards all my new growth was nice and smooth. The only complaint that I have is my scalp was super duper dry a few days later. To be fair I have to mention that my scalp gets very dry after every relaxer I get.

How to Treat a Relaxer Burn

I feel like since I posted on how to prevent relaxer burns, I should also post on how to treat a relaxer burn just in case some of my readers are still suffering from chemical burns caused by a relaxer. First of all, let me say your scalp can be burned by a lye or a no-lye relaxer, neither relaxer is exempt.

The first things first, I want to clear up a misconception. The tingly or burning feeling some people feel when they relax their hair is NOT a warning that it's time to get the relaxer out. At that point your scalp is probably already burned, your scalp should not burn or tingle when you relax your hair. If you are waiting to feel a little something, you are doing it all wrong! If your stylist waits until you report that you feel it tingling, get a new stylist!

Now let's get started on how to treat a mild* chemical burn caused by a relaxer. By mild I mean you find a scab on your scalp the next day or a few days after the relaxer process. If you know you have an open wound when you rinse the relaxer out, that's really bad and you should seek medical help. Get all the relaxer out of your head, cover the area with a sterile gauze and get to the hospital for further assessment. I mean that's all common sense and that's not the type of burn I'm talking about. MILD is when you didn't even know the burn occurred until you felt the scab.

1. Keep your hands off! Do not pick, scratch, or in any way try to remove the scab. Allow the scab to naturally heal and fall away.

2. Avoid combing, brushing, or massaging that area of your scalp until the scab has healed and fallen off on it's own. If you have to remove the hair that might be stuck to it, do it gently and honestly I wouldn't even do that.

3. Treat the scab. Treat your scab like you would any other scab, by applying antibacterial cream to the area. I would use Neosporin because it's clear and less detectable. Or you can use something more natural like a piece of Aloe Vera.

4. Prevent it from happening again. Use the tips and tricks I provided in this post to prevent relaxer burns in the first place and if you've tried it all and you still end up with burns maybe you body is trying to warn you. Some scalps just cannot tolerate relaxers and maybe you should just leave them alone and go natural!

*Please note this post is to provide general information, not medical advice. If you are in need of medical advice ask your doctor, do not turn to blogs for the information.

Relaxed Hair Must Haves

If you aren't a long time reader of The Anti Hair Slave then you probably don't know that I have relaxed hair. I've had relaxed hair for some time now, but I do remember the days of sitting in front of the stove while my mother hot combed my natural hair. With that being said, I'm glad I'm relaxed, I love wearing my hair straight so I can't imagine still having to use a hot comb. Yet, relaxed hair is also a challenge to keep healthy. Relaxing your hair is not the "easy" way out, you still have to take special care to keep your hair healthy. For me I turn to my must have products and tools.

1. Miss Keys 10 en 1 Conditioner - This was one of the very first Dominican conditioners I was introduced to during my hair care journey and I still use it to this day, I love it! I've tried Una Bomba (a close second), Silicon Mix, and others but Miss Keys just does wonders for my hair.

2. Henna - Henna has strengthened my hair like no other product. I could do without the red color at first, but now I love it but I really only use it for the strengthening ability.

3. Denman Brush - aka the doobie brush. I use my Denman to wrap my hair, to take it down from a wrap, and to detangle in the shower if I lost my denman I'd be lost. I actually did lose it at one point and I had to get another one because I missed it so much.

4. Coconut Oil - I absolutely love coconut oil for my hair. I use it as a pre-shampoo treatment, as a shine adder, I mix it into my conditioners, and as a moisturizer. It's amazing because it's one of the only oils that actually penetrates the hair shaft helping it from the inside out.

5. JBCO - Jamaican Black Castor Oil is relatively new to me, but it's helping to grow in my problem areas so it's a must have for me.

Avoid Relaxer Burns

Thankfully, I've never gotten a relaxer burn or if I did it was only once and so tiny that I don't even remember. Unfortunately, there are tons of women out there that get relaxer burns every single time they relax. In my eyes that's completely unacceptable. A relaxer should only straighten your new growth not burn your scalp. Remember, a healthy scalp is essential for healthy hair growth, a consistently burned scalp is not a healthy one. There are a different reasons why a relaxer might burn your scalp, use these tips to make relaxer burns a thing of the past.

1. Relax only new growth - this seems like a no brainer to me, but unfortunately some people don't realize that a relaxer never belongs on the scalp. Relaxers should ONLY be applied to the new growth.

2. Scalp Irritation - If your scalp is irritated for any reason, do not relax! This includes but is not limited to scratching and rough combing. If you can't stop scratching your scalp, it's usually because your scalp is dirty or it can be caused by other things so if you have itching, start by washing your hair and try to find out the cause of the problem, until you know and the problem has been corrected do not relax.

3. Self Relaxing - Just because you read the directions included in the relaxer kit and watched someone else applying a relaxer you are not a pro and you should probably leave the relaxing to a professional. One of the most common causes of relaxer burns is leaving the product on too long, if you are doing your own relaxer you need to do it quickly, keep it off your scalp, keep it off you previously relaxed hair, and make sure you completely relax all your new growth. Self relaxing is trickier than it seems and even though I've done it myself with no problems I still prefer to leave that to the pros. If you must do it yourself at least have a someone who can help you, but remember you've been warned.

4. Skipping the base - A majority of drugstore kits contain a base like Vaseline to protect the scalp, the skin around your hairline, and the tops of your ears.... USE it! Don't skip this important step and don't let a professional skip this step either, insist that your scalp be based first.

5. Choose the correct strength - If you have fine hair, do not use a SUPER strength relaxer. In fact, I don't think anyone truly needs a super strength relaxer, it's overkill. Even the most kinkiest hair will be straightened with a regular strength relaxer it just depends on how you smooth it through. Start with the mildest relaxer you can find, and don't be tricked into thinking Children's Relaxers (ie Just for Me) are gentler than adult brands, it's just not true.

Self Relax: Cantu Clinical Straightening Relaxer

So a few weeks ago I self relaxed using Cantu Clinical Straightening No Lye Relaxer System. I must say that this relaxer is the best at home relaxer I've ever used. Usually I have to turn to other products along the way while I'm relaxing whether it's vaseline to base my scalp and hair line or a better conditioner to thoroughly moisturize my hair after relaxing, but with the Cantu relaxer everything I needed plus more was included with the kit.

cantu® Shea Butter Advanced Clinical Straightening No-Lye Relaxer System, includes:

Step 1: Pre-Care Protective Balm. This step is applied to the nape of the neck and hairline to protect exposed skin during the relaxer mixture application.
Step 2: Anti-Breakage Pre-Care Treatment. This step is applied only to hair that has been previously relaxed as it helps to reduce the possibility of unnecessary breakage or damage.
Step 3: Deep Conditioning Straightening Crème
Step 4: Liquid Activator
Step 5: Neutralizing Color Indicator Shampoo with Anti-Itch. This step suspends the relaxing process and ensures thorough rinsing to reveal any relaxer residue. Anti-itch formula penetrates deep to provide instant relief of a dry, itchy scalp.
Step 6: Intensive Reconstructing Treatment. This step repairs damage caused by chemicals, heat or color applied to hair. Helps restore incredible softness, elasticity and shine to even the most severely damaged hair or dry, brittle hair.
Step 7: Deep Conditioning Moisturizing Treatment. This step restores moisture and infuses Shea Butter to nourish and strengthen hair.

The only thing I switched out was the gloves and not because they were those cheap paper-y kind, because they weren't they were good quality latex (powdered) gloves but I'm allergic to those so I had to use special gloves. I relaxed my hair just like how I usually self relax and it came out great, the Intensive Reconstructing Treatment followed by the Deep Conditioning Moisturizing Treatment is exactly what freshly relaxed hair needs and finally it's available right in a relaxer kit.

The kit should be available in your local drugstore for about $20 but unfortunately I can't find it around my way. For more info checkout Cantu.com

Relaxer Times

Here is a little tidbit of information about me and relaxers: When I self-relax, I never time myself. Instead, I make sure I have all my supplies on-hand so that I can apply, smooth, smooth some more and remove. Instead, of timing myself I determine when it's "ready" by the look and feel of the new growth. I can guess that the entire application and smoothing process only takes about 7-10 minutes and the end result is smooth but still wavey looking roots.

How long do you leave your relaxer on?

Mizani Relaxer = Flaky Scalp?

I got my last relaxer done at the salon, just because I didn't feel like doing it myself.  My stylist used a Mizani relaxer on my hair, which was fine with me because that's what I used last time at I really liked the results.  Anyway, 6 days later I noticed crazy amounts of dandruff (or what I though was dandruff) on my scalp and throughout my hair.  Even though I had another hair appointment the very next day I couldn't go in looking like that so I washed my hair myself and slathered on conditioner and left it like that until my appointment. 

When I got to the salon I told my stylist what happened with the dandruff and she told me that Mizani relaxers usually dry out the scalp something crazy and cause flakes like that, but she assured me it was not dandruff because if it was she would be able to rake up more flakes but she was unable to.  I was satisfied with this explanation, but I couldn't help but wonder if anyone else experienced this from using a Mizani relaxer?  Then I started thinking about my previous relaxer and I did remember some flakes after that relaxer too, so next time I'll be asking her to use something different.